Local Craftsperson Collaborates with Basket Maker to Create Graduation Cap

A local basket maker was contacted about a year ago by Leah Shenandoah Assistant Professor Faculty of Design at the OCAD University in Toronto. Leah, who is also a PhD candidate at Cornell University majoring in apparel design with minors in Indigenous Studies, Ethnography, and Neuroscience, sought Shirelle Jacob's assistance on a significant project.

Shenandoah is currently completing her dissertation research titled "Regalia: Resurgence and Resistance - Indigenous Fashion & Activism" (RRRIFA). This ethnographic qualitative research project aims to gather data on decolonizing Haudenosaunee apparel and potentially create a new garment designed by the participants.

Leah's vision was to address the controversy surrounding some fashion designers and creative artists who incorporate traditional ceremonial regalia into modern clothing, jewelry, and beadwork designs. This project sought to honor our Haudenosaunee heritage while showcasing the unique, intricate beadwork that has recently gained recognition in the high fashion world.

This year, an overwhelming and welcoming site was to witness so many high school graduates wearing traditional clothing as their choice to honor their graduation from high school.

Shirelle stated, "I was honored to collaborate with Leah on this endeavor. My youngest daughter, Laquoia Tahy, graduated in June 2024 and wanted to wear a traditional outfit for the occasion. This presented a perfect opportunity to create a traditional outfit with a contemporary vibe. Laquoia wanted a vibrant, bright green ribbon shirt, belt, and ribbon skirt. To bring this vision to life, I collaborated with Dee Back, a talented seamstress from Akwesasne. Additionally, I created her necklace/yolk, earrings, and moccasins, utilizing leather, beadwork, velvet, and bone beads."

As Shirelle considered beading her graduation cap, she wondered if anyone had ever crafted a cap from black ash and sweetgrass. After seeing similar work made from cedar bark out west, she reached out to local basket makers to explore this idea. Robin Lazore, a basket maker from Akwesasne, enthusiastically agreed to take on the project. After a few design discussions and fittings, Robin created a perfect cap using her finest splint, weaving it in the traditional style and finishing the edges with sweetgrass.

Shirelle added, "To complete the ensemble, Fyl Tahy crafted an Eagle Plum tassel that topped off the graduation cap. We eagerly awaited graduation day to showcase the entire outfit. The end result of all the collaborations was outstanding. As artists, fashion designers, and craftsmen, we are honored to create traditional Iroquois regalia that pays tribute to our heritage while resonating in today's world."