ROTINONSHONNI CLOTHING CON'T

1770’S

The trend of hybrid native/colonial clothing continued through the 18th century. Increasing interaction with European traders meant more transfusion of culture going both ways.

Glass and ceramic beads of various sizes, shapes and colors were incorporated into the decoration of native clothing or were worn as necklaces. Native embroidery continued to be used as formerly but was also incorporated in the decoration of knife cases worn around the neck. Many examples of knife cases, pouches, and moccasins decorated with porcupine quills and glass beads from this era still exist in museums and galleries and are being reproduced by artisans today.

In the 18th century, metallic ornamentation in the form of armbands, wristbands, headbands, circular and crescent gorgets, and brooches and pins became very popular among Natives. Silver was prized by Mohawk people as it paralleled the use of bright white shell as a reflection of goodness and energy.

Historic art from this era depicts our ancestors with this interesting mix of Native and colonial styles and materials. There are also paintings of colonial officials such as Indian agents wearing a mix of native and colonial clothing.

Some Native men who fought in the various colonial wars were sometimes made officers and given military coats and weaponry. These were worn and used even after the conflicts subsided and must have created a very striking image.

1800s

The 19th century saw a gradual change in clothing style among the Mohawk and other Native nations in the Northeast woodlands.

The War of 1812 saw our Native warriors dressing as they did in the 18th century, fighting in separate war parties in the Native style. An artist who visited Akwesasne in the 1830s described our children as wearing nothing but breechcloths in the summer. Her watercolor paintings of adults show them wearing cloth shirts, skirts, leggings and leather moccasins. An elderly woman is draped in a wool blanket. A man wears a blue trade shirt and sports silver bands around his arms and legs. He wears leather leggings, since pants had apparently not yet caught on among men.

By the time of the American Civil War broke out in the early 1860’s, a shift had taken place. Native warriors no longer fought in separate war parties but were regular conscripts wearing uniforms like their non-Native brethren.

Photographic images from the last half of the 19th century show that our people were dressing much more like people in the outside world, unless they were involved in a pursuit such as the selling of crafts or performing in various “wild west” shows popular at the time. The style of native clothing shows an enormous variety and complexity, and it is suggested that there was much more an influence of other tribes in this time period. Some native performers adopted the “Plains” style war bonnet, which non-Native audiences had come to expect. Other wore a crown of long turkey feathers that was popular at the time.