Sewing Methods

Reprinted from "Traditional Dress" by Adolf Hungrywolf

Hand-sewn items are generally stitched up inside out. When the completed item is turned right side out, the stitches should be barely visible between the even seam. These stitches can be hidden altogether if a thin strip of material is sewn between the two main layers and the stitches are kept quite firm. Sometimes a strip of contrasting material is used this way, with very pleasing results. Red wool cloth, for instance, makes a beautiful "well" between leather seams. Fur strips look very nice when used as welts between pieces of heavy wool material.

After you have made a wrapping paper pattern of your proposed work and then cut out your actual material (allowing ¼ inch for the seams), line up and pin the whole piece along the seams with stick pins. This will help keep your work properly lined up and will counter the stretching that your material may do while you are sewing. Two-piece items that are to be sewn most of all of the way around (such as pouches and two-piece moccasins) should be begun in the center and sewn first down one side, then the other-again, to outwit the material's tendency to stretch and end up lopsided.

Fasten your thread to the material either by knotting the end or by leaving a tail, taking several close stitches, and then tying a double knot with the tail and the main thread. Knotted ends alone tend to pull out during use. The basic stitch for sewing material inside out is the simple overhand (or loop) stitch. Again, keep the stitches even and tight, and sew close enough to the edge of the material to avoid unsightly and large stitches from showing when right side out (but not so close that pressure from use will rip the stitches through the material). At the end of a seam, or when running out of thread, either of the methods for tying thread may again be used. Waxing the end of the thread and taking a half dozen close, tight stitches is often sufficient for the end of sewing.