Introduction to Sewing

Reprinted from “Traditional Dress” by Adolf Hungrywolf

Most anything is easy to sew by hand, as long as you use common sense. Patience is the most difficult requirement. Anyone can produce fine work who has the patience to take short, even, and tight stitches.

Tools

In the old days the only tools for sewing were a knife for cutting, an awl of pointed bone for making holes, and strips of sinew to sew the materials together with. For inspiration, as well as for appearance of certain items (such as Medicine bags), nothing is better than the old-time process. You separate the piece of sinew into strips of the thickness required for the project. Soak one of the strips in your mouth until it becomes soft and workable. Then draw it across your lap with your left hand, from right to left, at the same time rolling your other hand over the strip with a downward motion. Thus twisted, the strip is poked through the awl holes and pulled tight. Leave the end used for poking dry and untwisted, so that it will be stiff and hard, like the rest of the strip when it dries. Sinew sewing is tedious, and beginning attempts are often clumsy. For making practical clothing you would do well to keep in mind the efforts of the past, while proceeding with the methods that follow.

The basic sewing tools of today are the needle and thread. Scissors, wax, and thimble are almost as important. A few dollars will buy a lifetime supply of all these materials in any department store that carries notions.

A dime-store package of assorted needles will take care of most sewing needs. Large needles are easier to handle and will take rougher treatment without bending or breaking. Smaller needles are easier to push through the material. Three-cornered needles are particularly good for leather sewing. When sewing leather, try to use the smallest practical needle-one with an eye just big enough to take your thread-or you will be struggling to push each stitch through. An awl is a handy tool to use when tough leather is being sewn. Perforate a number of holes with it and then follow with the needle and thread. A sharpened ice pick works as well as an awl.

Thread should always be at least as tough as the material you are sewing. A good standard type is made of nylon. This comes in tiny rolls, as well as mile-long spools, and is virtually unbreakable. Use it doubled for extra strength and rigidity.

Scissor types are many; the mot important factor to consider about them is sharpness. You will wear out patience and hands with dull scissors, and your work is likely to look ragged besides. Get a good pair of scissors that will keep a sharp edge, and have them sharpened once in awhile. Scissors will cut cloth and most leather. For tough leather, it is better to use a ruler and a razor blade. For fur, use a razor blade and cut on the skin side to avoid damaging the hair.

If you’ve ever perforated your fingertip with the fat end of a needle that you were attempting to push through thick material, then you will appreciate the value of a thimble. Learn to handle the needle with your thumb and middle finger, so that you index (or thimble) finger will always be free to give that helpful boost once your needle has found its mark. Buy a good-fitting thimble-too loose or too tight will distract your efforts at smooth sewing.

Pulling your length of thread back and forth over a small piece of beeswax will greatly improve the appearance and effort of your sewing. It will eliminate the slippery feeling of your thread and allow your stitches to remain snug after you pull them tight.

Continued next week with “Sewing Methods.”